Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, the husband-and-wife duo behind State Bird Provisions and the Progress, are opening their first oyster bar in the Fillmore district.
Called the Anchovy Bar, it’s the team’s spin on a classic oyster bar with an emphasis on local anchovies, West Coast oysters, wine and beer, and one that will purposefully go without entrees and courses. Brioza hopes to open its doors in late April, timed with the local anchovy season.
The bar takes over the recently vacated Fat Angel space, just around the corner from State Bird and the Progress. Brioza said the location was the main draw, and at just 1,000 square feet, the space is “the shoebox dream that we as chefs all gravitate toward.”
Brioza already serves anchovies at State Bird and the Progress. For the six months the fish are in season, the restaurants go through an average of 20 pounds per day. Brioza first started toying with a Californian version of boquerones, pickled Spanish white anchovies, back when he was the chef at Rubicon. He swapped out vinegar for citrus and threw in basil and jalapeno, creating something that truly celebrates the humble fish.
Those little oily fish — local and imported — will star at the Anchovy Bar in a range of dishes. There will also be a few oyster options each day sourced from Hog Island Oyster Co. While he’s still working on the menu, Brioza imagines including some meat and seafood tartares; small vegetable dishes; sliced European hams; pickles with breads and seasoned butters; smoked fish; and, of course, a killer Caesar salad.
“A dish I can’t get out of my mind right now is a smoked black cod roe butter over steamed potatoes,” he said as an example, adding that he’s working with Red Boat’s fish sauce-infused salt to sprinkle extra anchovy on various dishes.
No entrees will be on offer — after all, this is a bar. Partner Jason Alexander is compiling a list of 20-30 bottles of wine, emphasizing sparkling wines and crisp whites from all over. The team’s cicerone, Ben Henning, will create a rotating list of 15 beers. The Anchovy Bar will not have a full liquor license.
Wiley Price, who designed State Bird and the Progress, is overhauling the Fat Angel interior with interesting tiles, dark marble, stone and greens — a palette of colors and textures meant to evoke an oyster shell.
Since the 35-seat space is small and doesn’t have a full kitchen, Brioza plans to use condiments produced at his other restaurants — and the resources, like smokers and butcher room — to help make the flavors robust.
“I’m looking at it as a little extension of the Progress and State Bird,” he said. “The idea is to keep it incredibly simple and really focus on the integrity of the fish themselves.”
The Anchovy Bar. Opening late April. 1740 O’Farrell St., San Francisco.
Janelle Bitker is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Email: janelle.bitker@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @janellebitker
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State Bird Provisions team to open the Anchovy Bar in San Francisco - San Francisco Chronicle
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